孔雀羽串珠彩绣云龙纹吉服袍综述

Summary of Ji Fu Robe Embroidered with Peacock Feather and String of Beads with Clouds and Dragon Patterns

"孔雀羽串珠彩绣云龙纹吉服袍"是清代乾隆朝宗室用于喜庆吉日的吉服袍,是故宫博物院藏唯一一件通身结合"铺翠"工艺、串珠绣工艺以及刺绣工艺绣制的吉服。虽是宗室、亲王穿用的吉服袍,但与皇帝按清代服饰制度御用的九龙十二章纹的吉服袍相比,此袍在形式、工艺、材质、纹饰诸方面有着极其独特的亮点,具有独到的匠心和巧夺天工之处。笔者曾与故宫科技人员通过三维视频显微系统对该文物进行过显微研究,对材质进行过仔细分析研究(见《故宫博物院院刊》2009·4),本文拟就此件吉服袍的形式、纹饰、绣工等方面做进一步探讨。

Ji Fu robe embroidered with peacock feather and string of beads with clouds and dragon patterns, combined with the technique of Pu Cui（fabric background fully embroidered with peacock feather）, string of beads embroidery and other hand embroidery techniques, is the only one that the Palace Museum collected. Though this robe was for imperial clan and princes which was the same as the Ji Fu robe of nine dragons and the twelve ornaments, its shape, techniques, materials and patterns showed unique characteristics. The robe＇s materials have been researched by the author and technological personnel via 3D video microscope system, which published Palace Museum Journal on April, 2009. This article focuses on the robe＇s shape, patterns and embroidery techniques.