真丝/T400新弹缎脱胶染色一浴法工艺研究

Study on one bath process of degumming & dyeing of the silk/T400 interwoven fabric

真丝是天然蛋白质纤维,T400是新型弹力纤维。将真丝与T400交织,能使真丝织物的抗皱性、尺寸稳定性、耐磨性得以改善。文章针对真丝/T400新弹缎的染色工艺流程长、蚕丝易受损、分散染料易对真丝沾色等染整问题,采用真丝脱胶和分散染料染色一浴法工艺解决。研究了真丝脱胶和分散染料染色的适宜温度及p H值,通过研究p H值和分散染料结构对真丝沾色性能的影响,并结合酸性还原或碱性还原清洗,以减轻对真丝的沾色,使真丝/T400新弹缎保持良好的风格及服用性能,对实际生产具有良好的指导意义,可为新型真丝产品的开发提供借鉴。

Silk is natural protein fiber. T400 is a new type of elastic fiber. When interweaving silk fabric with T400,its wrinkle resistance,dimensional stability and abrasion resistance can be improved. This paper adopted one bath process of silk degumming and disperse dyeing process to solve dyeing and finishing problems of silk / T400 interwoven fabric,such as long dyeing process, easily damaged, and easily stained by disperse dye, etc. The proper temperature and p H value for silk degumming and dyeing with disperse dye were studied. By studying the impact of p H and structure of disperse dyes on the dyeing behavior,and in combing acid reduction cleaning or alkaline reduction cleaning to reduce staining of silk and to retain style and good wearability of silk / T400 interwoven fabric. It can guide actual production and provide experiences for developing new silk products.