黎锦织造工艺及其文化特征探源

Weaving Processing of Li Brocade and Cultural Characteristics Study

通过实地调研与跨文化比较方法,对黎锦的织造工艺及文化内涵进行了剖析。描述了黎锦的织造原料和织造工具,原料主要为麻类和棉类,工具主要为导纱工具和织造工具;记述了黎锦织造工艺,从上机、变综织纬和挑花方面分步骤展开黎锦的制作过程;由织造工艺衍生出其背后的文化意义,探讨了自然环境与生态物产、社会分工与课征贡品、情感寄托与宗教信仰、民族融合等多元化因素对其产生、延续及发展的影响,总结出黎锦织造工艺受多元文化影响的因素。

This paper is aimed to analyze the weaving processing and cultural connotation of Li brocade through on - the - spot investigation and cross - cultural comparison method. It describes the raw materials and manufacturing tools of Li bro- cade, the main raw materials are cotton and hemp, and the main manufacturing tools are yarn - guiding and traditional wea- ving tools. The current paper gives a detailed description of the Li brocadeg weaving process, and analyzes the production process of Li brocade step by step from three aspects, the machine, weft knitted fabric and cross - stitch, respectively. The cultural siguificancebehind the weaving process has been derived. The influences of the natural environment and ecological properties, social division of labor, levied tribute, emotional sustenance and religious, ethnic fusion, etc. on its produc- tion, the continuation and the development has been discussed. This paper finally summarizes the four factors of Li brocade weaving processing affected by muhiculturalism.