民族、女性与商业——社会史视角下的旗袍流行

Nation,Women,and Business:A Social History of Cheongsam

旗袍是二十世纪二十到四十年代民国时尚女性最主要的服饰种类之一。辛亥革命后,满清的旗装曾经一度因为排满之风盛行而遭社会排斥,但是随着时代的变化,在民族主义、女性解放及商业文化的推动下,旗袍逐渐成为一种时尚。尤其是到1926年后,旗袍在全国范围内大规模流行开来,成为各阶层女性竞相追逐的服饰潮流,甚至在海外成为东方女性服饰的象征。从社会史视角出发,在满与汉、中与西、女性解放以及商业文化等诸种因素的复杂互动中解读旗袍的兴起、流行与形象演变,使我们可以从旗袍最终成为"民国范儿"代表这一历史现象中,对民国时期的社会文化变迁有一个更深入的理解。

Cheongsam ranked as among the main costumes of fashion females in the 20s-40 sof the 20^(th) century.After the 1911 Revolution,the Manchuattire was largely rejected because of the anti-Manchu movement.However,with the changes of the times,and under the impetus of nationalism,women liberation and commercial culture,cheongsam returned as a fashion.In the years after 1926 in particular,cheongsam gained its nationwide popularity,becoming a vogue sought after by women of all walks of life,even turning out to be a symbolic clothing of overseas oriental females.With a social historical perspective in view,this paper attampts to interpret the start,popularity,and evolution of image of cheongsam in the complicated reactions between such factors as Manand Han,China and the West,women liberation and commercial culture.And from the mere fact that cheongsam finally became the representative of'Vogues of the Republican Era'we can obtain a deep understanding of the transformation of social culture of that period.