立领剪切法的创新探讨与运用

Discussion and Application of Stand Collar Shearing Method Innovation

立领常用结构设计方法主要有3种:起翘法、剪切法和依赖衣身领圈制图法。本文主要论述剪切法中基础领窝内倾斜立领的剪开位置和剪切量;切展量或重叠量与领口松量的关系;切展量或重叠量与领侧角的关系公式;切展量不变,领窝平行性变化的立领造型及着装效果以及运用剪切法做立领上口松度的变化分布结构,并结合自身操作实践,创新运用剪切法做立领的结构造型设计。

There are three main methods of common structure design of stand collars： warped method, shearing method and drawing method relying on the collars. This paper mainly discusses the shearing position and length of inclined stand collar in basic neckline with shearing method, the relationship between the cutting volume or overlapping volume and the loose amount of the collar, the relation formula of the cutting volume or overlapping volume and the side angle of the collar, the collar shape and the dressing effect with the parallel change of neckline and the same cutting volume, and the change distribution structure of the collar opening looseness. Also combined with the practical exercises, innovative application of shearing method have been used to design the collar structure.