两种近代美国时装用圆金线结构与能谱测试研究

Research on Two Circular Metallic Yarn Structures and Energy Spectrum Test Used in American Fashion

应用万能显微镜、实体显微镜、扫描电子显微镜、能谱仪等对两种美国时装用圆金线进行结构测试和能谱测试，分析其制造原料和结构特征，结果表明：两种芯线不同的圆金线的外观呈现扁平状特征，一种芯线是单根低捻蚕丝，另一种芯线则是双股棉线，二芯线和外包扁金线的捻向均相反；对其包缠扁金线进行能谱分析，其中一种为铜锌合金表面镀金，另一种为纯铜质表面镀金。两种圆金线与现代试样有较大差异，推测为近代圆金线产品。

Universal microscope , stereoscopic microscope , scanning electron microscope and EDS （Energy Disperse Spectroscopy ） were applied for structure test and energy spectrum test of circular metallic yarns used in American fashion .The manufacturing raw materials and structure features were analyzed .It is found that the two kinds of circular metallic yarns with different core yarns present flat feature .One kind of core yarns is single low‐twist silk ,and the other kinds of core yarns is double cotton yarns .Twist direction of both core lines and flat gold yearn is opposite .By energy spectrum analysis （EDS ） ,one is overgilded by pinchbeck alloy ,and the other is overgilded by pure copper .Both circular gold yarns differa a lot .It is speculated that they are modern circular gold yarns .