鸡(土從)与诗词:超越“南食”意象的终极言说

Jizong and Poetry: The Ultimate Poetic Presentation and Beyond

在明朝大军彻底平定云南之前,鸡(土從)属于藏在深山"不为内地人所识"的普通野蔬,并且采食者多为当地的某些山居族群,但"夷人制之卤莽,故通不可食"(张志淳语)。随着大规模汉族移民的到来,鸡的命运悄然发生转变。先是有"鸡(土從)户"的出现,因"镇守索之,动〔辄〕百斤";接下来便是同两位皇帝(明孝宗、明熹宗)的亲密接触,使鸡(土從)成为"南食"的代表。不可否认,从杨慎开始的大批诗人对鸡美食意象的固化起到了推波助澜的作用。在清代诗人的集体意象中,原先附加到鸡身上貌似的高贵被逐渐消解,那些涉足滇黔的旅食者尽情抒发他们的旨趣并将其编织成"美丽的乡愁"。

Jizong - Termitornyces albuminosus （Berk） Heim - had been hidden in the folds of Yunnan＇ s mountains, far from known to the world and only eaten by the locals, until arrival of Han migrants following the Ming troops. Then professional collectors ofjizong emerged to meet the need of the connoisseur tongue of the local magistrates and even the emperors, making this delicious mushroom representative of the so - called southern foods. Yang Shen and many other poets eulogized it with their works and their efforts undoubtedly consolidated its high - profile and even noble image on the table of the nation, which only began to collapse in the Qing Dynasty, likewise due to efforts of the Qing poets. This mushroom then became a popular theme littering the works of the homesick travelers.