南宋淳祐时期贵族妇女着装形态考释

Noble Women's Dressing Style in Chunyou Reign of Southern Song Dynasty

本文依托20世纪70年代中国纺织考古的一次重大发现—福州南宋黄昇墓(淳祐二年,1243年)出土的纺织服饰资料,从"服装"与"着装对象"二元关系出发,运用定量与定性相结合的研究方法,致力于南宋淳祐时期贵族妇女着装形态的复原考证工作,从着装品类、着装秩序、着装风格等方面展开研究,试图呈现该时期女性衣装生活的真实面貌。纷繁的服饰品类因季节气候、环境场合等自然、社会因素被有序组合、搭配,构成南宋贵族妇女绚丽、奢华的衣装文化世界。除了雍容华贵的礼用大袖衫裙外,贯穿于日常生活始终的裙背装与襦裙服所呈现出的是以"纤秀雅趣"为主流审美特色的宋人习尚;而南宋不同时期贵族妇女衣装所呈现的差异化特征,则透露出宋代女性时尚"数岁即一变"的缤纷样态。

Based on archaeological findings from the Southern Song dynasty tomb of Huang Sheng（born in 1243） discovered in Fuzhou, Fujian province in the 1970 s, the current author reveals noble women＇s dressing style during that period. Using quantitative and qualitative methods, binary relation between clothing and women is examined. A detailed study is carried out on the dressing category, code and style. The combination of clothes in rich diversity changed with the season, climate and social environment and became part of the glamorous and sophisticated fashion culture of the Southern Song. In addition to large sleeve ceremonial dresses, daily coats and skirts show the mainstream preference for slimness and elegance. The variety of styles exhibited by noble women＇s clothing throughout different periods during the Southern Song delineates a picture of ever-changing women＇s fashion.