康巴藏袍“五色”和“五福”缘饰纹章考论

Research on “five colors”and “five bats”edging pattern in the Kham Tibetan robe

以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆现藏三件经典康巴兽皮饰边藏袍"五色"和"五福捧寿"缘饰纹章形制为研究对象,通过对标本的信息采集、测绘、复原实验与文献结合的考据方法得出,"五色"既是藏传佛教的体现又是汉道"五行"的产物,"五福捧寿"和长寿纹源于汉儒文化,兽皮则承载了原始氏族社会的古老信息,三者在藏袍中的集中运用既是藏汉文化交流的生态又是归属,为中华民族服饰"一统多元"的文化特征提供了生动的实证。

This paper takes＂five colors＂and＂Five Bats and Longevity＂pattern in the edging of Kham Tibetan robes which are from the Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology as the object of study. Though sample information collection,surveying and drawing,recovery experiment and literature research,it is concluded that ＂five colors＂embody Tibetan Buddhism and they are also the product of＂Five Elements＂in Daoism; both＂Five Bats and Longevity＂and ＂Longevity character＂pattern come from the Confucian culture of Han; animal skins carry the old information of primitive clan society; these three things concentrating in the Tibetan robe are both the ecology and affiliation of Tibetan-Han exchange. This paper provides vivid demonstration for the cultural features of ＂unified multicultural＂in Chinese ethnic costume.