手工真皮大底皮鞋工艺技术研究

Manufacture technology of handmade leather shoes with leather soles

针对我国传统高档真皮大底皮鞋制作工艺十分精湛却濒临失传的现状,对我国传统制鞋文化进行简单介绍,并对我国传统手工真皮大底皮鞋制作工艺进行研究,初步阐述了其基本工艺流程和关键技术,为未来传统制鞋工艺的传承和改进,提供理论基础。手工真皮大底皮鞋制作基本工艺流程包括测量脚型、制作鞋楦、设计鞋面、修整皮革、加工鞋帮、制作鞋帮套、手工绷帮、固特异工艺、制作大底。需注意的地方包括量脚定制、原材料的选取和运动缓冲。关键技术包括鞋楦模型制作,手工绷帮,皮革帮面、内里处理,鞋跟制作。

Traditional Chinese shoe culture was reviewed and the basic technology and key skills of handmade leather shoes with leather soles were also introduced. It is helpful for the inheritance and modification of the traditional shoe technologis. The manufacture process includes measuring foot, making shoe last, shoe design, leather finishing, processing uppers, making upper covers, handmade lasting, goodyear craft and making sole. The major factors which should be paid attention to are custom, the se- lection of raw materials and the buffer. Key technologies includes making shoe last moodel, handmade lasting, processing leather upper and lining and making heels.