传统荷包边饰艺术分析

Analysis on trimming art of traditional pouch

为了复原传统荷包工艺艺术的边饰工艺,对江南大学民间服饰传习馆、台州刺绣博物馆300余件荷包传世藏品的边饰进行分类研究,发现荷包边饰主要有编织带镶边、布条滚边和股线绣边3种基本形式。其中,织带镶边在葫芦荷包、扇套、眼镜袋等荷包中常见;布条滚边在江南腰包中最为普遍;股线绣边工艺最复杂,在装饰性强的方荷包、圆荷包中应用最多。可见,风格粗犷的大型荷包以布条滚边为主,精细绣花的小型荷包多以绣边装饰,织带镶边则具有一定的装裱作用。荷包边饰艺术融合了传统纹饰设计、配色、编织与刺绣等工艺。边饰选择遵循衬托点缀和功能适宜原则,荷包的造型类别、装饰风格以及制作材料共同决定了荷包边饰类型。

In order to retrieve the traditional pouch trimming craft,pouches collections of 300 pieces from Jiangnan University Folk Costume Museum and Taizhou embroidery museum have been classified and researched.It was found that the trimming art mainly contains three basic forms,and they are braidstrip welt,cloth-strip roll off and embroidering trimming.The first one is commonly used in cucurbit pouch,fan cover,glasses bag and such.The second one is widely used in waist pouches from South of Yangtze River.The third craft is the most complex and always used in highly decorated square or round purses.It was found that some rough style pouch such as the large waist pouch prefers cloth trim,and fine embroidered small purse tends more to the decorative embroidered trim,while the ribbon trim more or less has a function of framing.The trimming art of these purses is an integration of pattern design,color design,weaving craft and embroidery art.The trimming choosing follows the principle of proper embellishment and functional suitability,and the pouch type,decorating style and materials decide the trimming type and appearance.