吸湿排汗三防易去污针织牛仔面料的开发

Development of Moisture-absorbing,Sweat-transfer,Three-preventions and Easy-cleaning Knitted Denim Fabric

采用20.20 tex棉与16.67 tex/72 f的Coolmax R交织,在24针/25.4 mm双面大圆机上开发吸湿排汗易去污双面斜纹针织牛仔面料。重点分析染色纱的工艺设计,以靛蓝染色为例,介绍染色原理、注意事项、染色工艺,并详细阐述织造工艺,包括原料选择、织物组织、设备参数、编织工艺、织造要点等,同时对水洗工艺和三防易去污整理进行开发设计,最后对产品的吸湿快干性、防水、防油、易去污性进行测试。结果表明,该产品的性能达到吸湿、排汗、易去污开发设计需求,适合制作针织牛仔裤、针织休闲服等。

The paper develops a new kind of moisture-absorbing,sweat-transfer and easy-cleaning knitted denim fabric on 24 gauge double circular machines by using 20.2 tex cotton and 16.67 tex/72 f Coolmax. It focuses on the dyeing process of yarn and takes indigo dyeing as an example, and introduces the dyeing principle, precau- tions, dyeing process and knitting process including raw materials selection, pattern design, equipment parameters, knitting technology, key points of knitting and so on. At the same time, it describes the design of the washing pro- cess and the functional finishing of ＂three preventions＂ and easy-cleaning and the moisture-absorbing, fast-dry, water-resistant, oil-proof, stain removal properties of the fabrics are tested. The results show that the developed fabric has reached the design requirements on moisture-absorbing, sweat-transfer and stain removal, which is suit- able for making knitted jeans and knitted casual wear.