针织与梭织双拼结构衬衣面料热湿舒适性研究

Analysis of Thermal and Moist Comfort of Knitted and Woven Standard Shirt Fabrics

采用微孔涤纶、普通涤纶、棉、大麻、莫代尔、Lyocell TM等多种纤维混纺纱与异涤长丝,编织6种针织物和梭织物,分析织物的力学及服用性能,包括弯曲长度、折皱回复性、透气性、热湿舒适性等,并分析纤维材料和织造方法,对织物力学性能、热湿舒适性的影响。结果表明,6种织物均具有良好的热湿舒适性、力学性能;与梭织物相比,针织物具有较好的透气性、透湿舒适性和柔软的手感;而梭织物则具有较高的蒸发速率,两种织物混合使用,可以设计出舒适性更好的制式衬衣。

The paper develops six kinds of knitted and woven fabrics, by using micro porous polyester/polyester/ cotton/hemp/Modal/Lyocell blended yarns and multiple differential and textured polyester filament, and analyzes the mechanical properties and wearability, such as bending length, wrinkle recovery, air permeability, thermal and moist comfort and so on. In addition, the effect of fibers and knitting methods on the mechanical properties and thermal and moist comfort are analyzed. The results show that six kinds of fabrics possess excellent thermal and moist property, good mechanical properties, and compared with woven fabric, the air permeability and moisture permeability of knitted fabric are better, but the evaporation rate of woven fabric is better than knitted fabric. It can be concluded that the appropriate combination of woven and knitted fabrics can produce better comfortable standard shirts.