毛/长丝交织物勾挂破坏过程的表征研究

Research on characterization about wool/filament interwoven fabric from hooking processing

选用毛/涤和毛/粘胶2种交织物作为试样,通过改变勾挂破坏的次数,对试样经受不同勾挂次数破坏后表面产生的疵点进行归类分析,得到勾挂疵点按形态分为凹痕、突起、紧纱段、线圈、小勾丝、中勾丝和大勾丝,其中突起、凹痕、紧纱段和线圈这些较小疵点为非破坏性疵点,长丝物(小勾丝、中勾丝和大勾丝)为破坏性疵点,织物勾挂破坏性能主要取决于试样表面的破坏性疵点。同时,按疵点的形态特征将勾挂破坏依次分为表面疵点出现、线圈生长、长丝物形成和勾断毛簇出现4个阶段。

Wool/polyester and wool/viscose interwoven fabrics are selected as experimental samples conducting a series of varying number of hooking destruction.Surface morphology and defects are classified and analyzed after samples bearing varying number of hooking destruction.According to the hooking destruction degree,defects are classified as dents,protrusions,tight strand segments,coils,small snag,mediate snag and big snags where small defects such as protrusions,dents while long snags（small snag,mediate snag and big snags） are destructive defects.Fabric hooking performance mainly depends on the sample surface defects types.Meanwhile the hooking damaging process can be categorized into four stage： surface defects occurrences,defects grow into coil,filaments snags formation and tufts.