集圈工艺参数对单面集圈织物性能的影响

Influence of tuck ratio and times on properties of single tuck sweater fabric

为研究集圈对织物性能的影响,以单面集圈织物为例,使用相同纱线、相同弯纱深度,通过改变集圈比例、集圈次数织制了9种集圈织物和1种纬平针织物,测试了织物的横密、纵密、厚度、面密度、透气性和保暖性等性能指标,分析了集圈比例、集圈次数对织物性能的影响,并进行回归分析。结果显示:与纬平针织物相比,集圈织物横密变小,纵密变大,厚度、面密度、透气性、保暖性增加;集圈次数一定时,集圈比例与织物横密、纵密、厚度、面密度、保暖率分别呈直线关系,与织物透气率呈二次函数关系;集圈比例一定时,集圈次数与织物横密、纵密、保暖率分别呈二次函数关系,与透气率呈二次函数关系或直线关系,与织物厚度、面密度分别呈直线关系。

In order to find out the influence of tuck on fabric properties,single tuck knitting fabric was taken for example.Ten kinds of samples,including nine tuck stitches and one plain,were woven with same yarn and sinking depth by changing the ratio and times of tuck.Fabric properties such as course,wale,thickness,surface density,air permeability and heat retention were tested,and the influences of tuck ratio and tuck times on fabrics were investigated.Moreover,experimental data were used for regression analysis.The results show that,compared with the plain fabric,tuck increases the fabric wale density,thickness,surface density,air permeability and heat retention,but decreases course density.When tuck times is fixed,tuck ratio has a line relationship separately with course density,wale density,thickness,surface density and heat retention,but has a quadric relationship with air permeability.When tuck ratio is fixed,tuck times has a quadric relationship with course density,wale density and heat retention,has a quadric or line relationship with air permeability,and has a line relationship with thickness and surface density,respectively.