摘要
当前绝大多数文献关于贾卡织机的描述过于简单,不利于读者、研究者理解这一纺织技术史上最重要的机械发明之一。基于多年来对贾卡织机的文献进行全面的收集和分析,研究认为崔崐圃教授20世纪50年代出版的《纹织设计学》一书对贾卡织机进行了全面的描述,而该书快要绝迹于中国各大图书馆,应该引起纺织技术史界注意。此外,该书关于布启织机、法尔康织机的提花装置有一些地方存在着表述错误,不更正不利于后世学人对贾卡织机的理解。故文章对贾卡织机的变迁发展进行比较详细、系统的考辨性研究,以期客观地表征这一伟大的纺织机械发明。研究还发现:从莱尼织机提花装置图来看,纹板图应该当时已经出现,即织物上机图已经出现;沃康松织机奠定了贾卡织机的外形特征和自动化设计的原理;贾卡织机的发展不是一蹴而就的,而是先后经历布启织机、法尔康织机、莱尼织机、沃康松织机的启发,缺少哪一个中间环节都会影响贾卡织机的发明。
Most research documents about Jacquard loom in China are so simple that many readers and researchers can not understand one of the most important machinery inventions in the history of spinning technology. Based on full analysis on all research documents about Jacquard loom in China,the authors holds that textural design written by Prof.Kun-pu Cui in 1950 s caries out thorough analysis on Jacquard loom. However,it is difficult to find this book in nearly all Chinese libraries. So the value of this book should be noticed by the circle of spinning technology. Furthermore,there are some false statements about Bouchon loom and Falcon loom. They easily lead to misunderstanding about Jacquard loom. This paper studies change development about Jacquard loom systematically and deeply in order to represent this great invention objectively. It concludes that we find the existence of lifting plan from draw equipment of Reynier loom drawn by Prof. Kun-pu Cui; Vaucanson loom laid the groundwork for the appearance and design principle of Jacquard loom;Bouchon loom,Falcon loom,Reynier loom,Vaucanson loom all inspired the invention of Jacquard loom.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2016年第8期72-78,共7页
Journal of Silk
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(15YJCZH085)
湖北省教育厅人文社科基金青年项目(15Q096)
武汉纺织大学国家级项目培育计划(武纺大科〔2016〕3号)
关键词
贾卡织机
布启织机
法尔康织机
莱尼织机
沃康松织机
变迁发展
考辨
Jacquard loom
Bouchon loom
Falcon loom
Reynier loom
Vaucanson loom
change development
textual criticism