基于针排法对毛/长丝交织织物勾挂破坏的研究

Research on hooked damage of wool/filament interwoven fabric based on hooking processing

选用毛/涤和毛/粘胶2种交织织物,在自制实验装置所带针排上沿水平方向以恒定速度通过获得破坏,探讨植针密度、试样负荷和重锤质量对勾挂破坏的影响。通过对实验数据的分析,结果表明:植针密度、试样负荷和重锤质量对勾挂破坏都有一定的影响,随着植针密度和重锤质量的增加,试样单位面积的疵点个数越多,疵点长度越减小,勾挂等级越低,勾挂破坏越严重。随着试样负荷的增加,单位面积的疵点个数先增多后减少,疵点长度越长,勾挂破坏越严重。结合试样疵点形态,确定最为合适的实验参数:植针密度10 mm×10 mm、重锤质量1 kg、试样负荷5 N时,试样能够平稳通过针板,不会产生非正常性疵点。

Wool/polyester and wool / viscose interwoven fabrics were selected as experimental samples of hookde destruction. By changing the times of hooked destruction,the surface defects of interwoven fabrics were classified and analyzed. According to the sharp and destruction degree of samples,the hooked defects could be divided into dents,protrusions,tight strand segments,coils,small snag,mediate snag and big snags,where the dents,protrusions,tight strand segments and coils were considered to be non-destructive defects while the others were destructive defects. The results showed that hooking performance of interwoven fabric mainly depended on the destructive defects on the surface of samples. Meanwhile the process of hooking damaging on interwoven fabrics could be categorized into four stage： surface defects occurrences, defects grow into coil, filaments snags formation and tufts.