氅衣造型的演化与文化含义探析

The Analysis of “Chang” Clothes' Modeling Evolution and Cultural Significance

氅衣作为我国传统服饰中的一个品类,从东晋时期有文字记录起,以极高的频率出现在中国传统文学书画作品当中。不同时期的氅衣的实际形态有着极大的差异,总体经历了由短及长、由道及俗、由专称到泛称的发展过程。氅衣形式的不断变化和氅衣所承载的文化含义的演变密切相关,是服装的精神含义对服装造型产生重要影响的范例之一,其演变的过程反映了特殊的服装品种在文化传承中起到的承载作用。

As one type of Chinese traditional costume, ＂Chang＂ clothes had been dcoumentad from Eastern Jin Dynasty and shown in the traditional Chinese literary and art works frequently. The actual shapes of ＂Chang＂ were quite different in different historical peri- ods. In general the style had undergone the changes the length, the wearers and the shapes. There was a close relationship between the evolution of the style of ＂Chang＂ and culture environment of the times. It＇ s a typical example of the spiritual aspects with great affec- tion to costume modeling. The changing process of ＂Chang＂ reflected the culture - carrying function of special traditional costume types.