北京大学藏秦代简牍《制衣》的“裙”与“袴”

On “Qun(Skirts)” and “Ku(Hakama Skirts)” in Zhiyi(Clothes Making) of the Qin Dynasty Slips and Tablets in the Collection of Peking University

北京大学藏秦代简牍中有一篇自名《制衣》的文献,是记载裙、上襦、大襦、小襦、前袭、袴剪裁方法的专门著作。《制衣》的剪裁工艺按布幅宽二尺五寸设计,布幅的宽度源自秦《金布律》。睡虎地秦墓出土秦律的年代可能早到战国晚期,《制衣》的成书年代当与之相去不远。《制衣》的出现填补了我国早期服装工艺文献记载的空白,对古代服装史的研究具有重要价值。本文以《制衣》的"裙"和"袴"为重点,分析其剪裁技法和结构,并就相关问题作了简要讨论。

There is a book entitled Zhiyi 制衣(Clothes Making), which is a specialized book describing the tailoring and sewing methods of qun 裙(skirts), shangru 上襦(upper garments), daru 大襦(blouses), xiaoru 小襦( short jackets), qianxi 前袭( vests) and ku 袴( hakama skirts). The tailoring specifications of Zhiyi were based on a fabric width of two chi and five cun(One chi was roughly equal to 23.1 cm during the Qin Dynasty). The width of the fabric was based on the Jinbu lü 金布律( Statutes on Currency and Fabrics). The legal documents of the Qin Polity unearthed from the Qin tombs at Shuihudi might have been as early as the late Warring-States Period. The completion of the book Zhiyi would not have been too far from that period. The discovery of this book fills in a vacancy in literature on costume making in early China, and it has significant value for the study of the history of ancient costumes and attire. This paper focuses on the 'Skirts' and 'Hakama Skirts' in the book Zhiyi and analyzes their tailoring techniques and structure, as well as briefly discusses some additional relevant issues.