耐久亮丽真丝织物的开发

Development of the durable bright silk fabrics

通过筛选合适的精练剂、活性染料和后整理剂，分别对真丝织物进行精练、染色、后整理加工，开发出耐久亮丽真丝织物。优化的加工工艺为：连续精练时精练剂X质量浓度6-8g，L，pH值9-11，温度90-95℃，时间30。40min；染色时选用质量浓度为1～2g/L纯碱或3～5/L小苏打固色，染色温度70-80℃，时间50-60min；整理时柔软剂CS质量浓度0．3～0．5g/L，室温浸渍，时间40—60min，定形温度115-120℃，车速20-30m／min。运用该工艺开发的织物色泽亮丽，各项色牢度均优良，30次洗后变色4～5级，外观无明显起灰，手感舒适。

Through selecting the suitable scouring agents, reactive dyes and finishing agents, the wet processing is applied to silk fabric. The durable bright silk fabric is developed. The optimal process is continuous.scouring at 90-95 ℃ for 30-40 min with scouring agent X 6-8 g/L and pH value 9-11, dyeing at 70N80℃ for 50-60 min with sodium carbonate 1-2 g/L or sodium bicarbonate 3-5 g/L for fixation, ex- haust dyeing at room temperature for 40-60 rain with softening agent CS 0.3-0.5 g/L, heat setting at 115-120 ℃ under the speed of 20-30 m/min. The treated silk fabric has durable bright color and good color fastness of Grade 4-5 after 30 times washing, and with comfortable hand.