民国时期女性倒大袖上衣衣袖造型艺术研究

The Modeling Arts of the Inverted Sleeves of Traditional Chinese Dress

文章以倒大袖上衣的衣袖为研究切入点,以民国时期的画报照片和文字记载为线索,同时辅以江南大学民间服饰传习馆中倒大袖上衣的衣袖测量数据,从衣袖长度变化规律和影响因素、袖口袖窿围度的变化和长度围度两者间关系的角度,分析倒大袖造型的变化规律及其艺术内涵。

The paper mainly discusses the inverted sleeves of traditional Chinese dress in the early 20th century. By reviewing the photographs in the illustrated magazines published in the period of the Republic of China （1911-1949） and related written records, and based on the measurement data of inverted sleeves from the Museum of Folk Costumes of Jiangnan University, the paper analyzes the changes of the shape of the inverted sleeves and its artistic connotation by discussing the change of the sleeve length and relevant influence factors, the change of the circumference at cuff and armhole as well as the relationship between length and circumference.