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软蜡上的封印——近世纪西方女性服饰与身体关系的言说 被引量:1

the Seal on the Soft Max: the study of the relationship between Women's Clothes and Women's body in Past Century
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摘要 每个时代都会按照自己的文化与审美品位通过服饰来塑造属于自己的身体。西方近世纪女装创造了人类服装史上人工装饰的"重装巅峰",本文即通过研究此时期"重装"对女性身体各部位的塑造,分析服饰背后折射出的社会身体观:即"崇尚女性美"的时代文化背后,对女性身体的否定与情欲定位。并进一步剖析,在封建君主制时代,女性的社会身份紧密地指向女性的身体,以身体取悦男性往往是女性社会身份实现的途径。 Every era shapes it's own body by clothes which be set by the culture and the aesthetic taste of their time. The styling of the women's wear in past century reached the peak of "heavy-type"wear. The paper focus on the phenomenon that different parts of women's body which had been respectively shaped by the "heavytype"wear, and analyzed the social view of bodily conception by seeing through the appearance to perceive the essence. The essentials of this affair lay deep under the surface,the era culture of worshiping beauty of women, is negative attitudes and sensual position of women's body. And further analysis of the closer relationship between women's social identity and body. Body was as sources of entertainment for men, That is, The Women used to be established their identity by appealing to men. Clothes just like a kind of seal of culture and valuable activity in an epoch that was set on the women's body.
作者 宋炀 Song Yang
出处 《艺术设计研究》 CSSCI 2016年第3期20-29,共10页 Art & Design Research
基金 北京服装学院校内重点科研项目支持(项目编号:2015A-01)
关键词 服饰 女性 身体 社会身份 审美标准 Women's Clothes Women Body Social Identity Standards of Beauty
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参考文献12

  • 1[法]Beatrice Fontanel, translated by Willard Wood. Support and Seducetion: the History of Corsets and Bras, Abradale Press, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers. 2001.
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二级参考文献3

  • 1(美)凯瑟 李宏伟.服装社会心理学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2000.75-90.
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