三道吴中风物,千年历史误会——西晋张翰秋风所思菰菜、莼羹、鲈鱼考

The Historical Misunderstandings Related to the Three Courses of Wuzhong Thousands of Years Ago——Study of Mushroom,Water Shield Soup and Perch Missed by Western Jin Dynasty Zhang Han in the Autumn Wind

西晋张翰秋风思乡之事出于《世说新语》和《晋书·张翰传》,两书所说张翰所思吴中菜品不同,《世说新语》称菰菜羮、鲈鱼脍两物,而《晋书》作菰菜、莼羹、鲈鱼脍三种。同时有关信息表明,应以《世说新语》所说为是,《晋书》抄录前者而妄增一"莼"字,使两物变成三物。莼菜时令在春夏,《晋书》显属误增,然中唐以来《晋书》所说影响大增,秋风莼鲈之思成了各类艺文书写中的流行说法,莼菜被牢牢定格在秋天的季节里,几成生活常识。菰菜即菇菜,是夏秋下湿环境所生土菌、地皮菜之类菌菇,吴中多以此作羹,与鲈鱼脍并称"金羹玉脍"。五代以来,因名称中的"菰"字与称作"菰首"的茭白误作一物,影响至今。茭白之明确食用始于唐,兴于宋,作为蔬菜大行种植更在其后。两宋时吴中的茭白生产尚少,上溯六朝更不足称。张翰故事所说鲈鱼通称松江鲈鱼,本只泛称地方名产。宋代以来,松江地区有一种四鳃鲈见于记载,被视为松江鲈鱼的代表。宋人有关记载较为模糊,明清以来认识逐步明确,现代以来正式定名为松江鲈。然此鱼属杜父鱼科,与鲈鱼关系较远,冬日才成熟肥美,体格极小,远不堪脍。六朝以来,人们通常所说松江鲈鱼,包括后来所谓四鳃鲈,多称体量较大、鳞白黑斑,应属我国近海分布较多的花鲈之类。两者大小悬殊,品种迥异,然自古至今人们多说作一物,浑然不辨。三种吴中风物,唐宋以来的传播和解读都陆续出现了问题,形成系统的错误信息,在我们文艺书写和知识传承中产生了广泛的影响,留下了深长的历史印迹,有必要全面辨析,正本清源,还其真实面目。

Western Jin Dynasty Zhang Han＇ s homesickness in the Autumn wind was recorded in Shishuo Xinyu and Biography of Zhang Han in History of the Jin Dynasty, in which different Wuzhong delicacies missed by Zhang Han were mentioned.The former recorded mushroom soup and small cuts of perch while the latter mushroom, water shield soup and small cuts of perch. At the same time, the relevant information suggests that the statements in Shishuo Xiuyu shall prevail because the records of History of the Jin Dynasty were taken from it ,wild adding the words ＂Water Shield＂to make the two courses into three. Water shield season is in Spring and Summer, so the records in History of the Jin Dynasty are obviously inaccurate, whose influence,however, increased greatly since mid-Tang and ＂missing Water Shield Soup and Perch in the Autumn wind＂had become a popular saying in various kinds of literary writing. Since then water shield was firmly fixed in Autumn, which nearly was a common sense.Mushroom is a type of fungus like soil-born fungus, nostoc commune, agaric and other vegetables growing in wet environment in Summer and Autumn. People in Wuzhong often utilized them to make soup.The mushroom soup and small cuts of perch were respectively compared to gold and jade.Since the five Dynasties, mushroom had been mistaken for wild rice stem which was called ＂the top of mushroom＂ just because there is a Chinese word ＂Gu＂ in both names. The influence of this mistake remains inescapable by far. Wild rice stem was clearly eaten from Tang Dynasty and became popular from Song Dynasty followed by regarding it as a vegetable to widely cultivate. During Song period,very little wild rice stem in Wuzhong was produced and even less if dating back to the Six Dynasties. The perch referred in the story of Zhang Han is generally called ＂Songjiang perch＂,which is just a catch-all to describe local specialities. A kind of perch with four gills in the region of Songjiang had been recorded and seen as a representative of Songjiang perch since Song. The related record of it was not clear in Song but gradually definite since Ming and Qing dynasties and is named ＂Trachidermus lfasciatus Heckel＂ in mordern times.However, the fish that belongs to gills＂ have large size, white scales and black spots that should be classified into the densely distributed Lateolabrax japonicus in China＇ s coastal waters. The two things vary greatly in their size and variety but have been mistaken for one thing from ancient times to the present. Problems arose one after another on the spread and explanation of the three courses of Wuzhong since Tang and Song dynasties, forming systemic incorrect information, having a wide impact on the literary writing and knowledge inheritance and leaving deep historical traces. It deserves our all-round discrimination so as to find the truth out of confusion.