高档纯棉针织品的双丝光工艺研究

A Research on the Double Mercerization of Pure Cotton Knitgoods with Superior Quality

双丝光工艺就是先对棉纱丝光处理 ,然后再对经过丝光的棉纱线编织出的坯布进行丝光。在对棉纱和坯布进行丝光时 ,应控制碱液的浓度、碱液的温度、丝光张力、丝光时间、轧余率和去碱。经过分析和探讨 ,得出纱线丝光的工艺为 :碱浓度 2 7°B啨～ 30°B啨 ,温度 2 0℃～ 2 5℃ ,丝光时间 5 0s～ 6 0s ,轧余率 12 0 %。坯布丝光的工艺为 :碱浓度 2 6 0g/L～ 2 80g/L ,碱液温度 2 0℃～ 2 5℃ ,丝光时间 4 0s ,轧余率 10 0 %～ 12 0 %。

Double mercerizing means applying mercerization firstly to the yarn and then to the fabric which is knitted from the mercerized yarn. During the finish both to the cotton yarn and fabric, some factors should be controlled, such as the density of caustic lye, tension used, running time as well as pickup and caustic removal. Based on analysis and discussion, a recommended process conditions is given. For yarn mercerizing, using a concentration of 27°Bé～30°Bé of caustic soda, at a tempeature of 20～25℃ for a duration of 50s～ 60s, with a pickup of 120%. For fabric: a density of 260g/L ～ 280g/L is selected at a temperature of 20～25℃ running 40s with a pickup of 100% ～120%.