方雪鸪服装画的设计技法

Design Techniques of FANG Xuegu's Fashion Illustration

探讨了方雪鸪服装画的风格,将其服装画的设计技法归结为素描、水彩和色粉画法3种;并从形体、妆容和配饰3方面分析了他对女性形象的构建,将其服装画的风格概括为优雅浪漫、图文并茂和巧妙布局。认为民国时期的绘画艺术、报刊媒介和服饰流行构成了对其服装画的根本影响。

Xuegu FANG, a famous painter and fashion designer in the history of modern China, got great achievement in fashion illustration field. This article mainly discusses about the style of Xuegu FANG＇s fashion illustration. Through the research, we summarize his drawing skills as three types： sketch, watercolor and crayon. We analyze his construction methods for female image from three aspects： body, makeup and ornament. Besides, his fashion illustration styles are sum up as elegant and romantic, excellent in both pictures and literary composition, as well as sophisticated layout. At the same time, we judge that the painting skills, the newspapers and magazines, and the clothing fashion of the republican period of China made important impact on his fashion illustrations.