“涵泳”美学视角下的日本男装设计

Japanese Men's Wear Design from the Perspective of Aesthetics

南宋"涵泳"美学主要体现为南宋理学中的"涵咀",包括含蓄、涵养、涵容等."涵泳"的美学艺术在南宋表现为审美意境、朱熹书法的时代精神、梁楷绘画的禅宗意境、龙泉青瓷的工艺风貌."涵泳"美学还深刻地影响了日本,特别是在服装设计方面影响了日本一代男装设计大师,主要受影响的有廓型与结构方面的日本东方派设计师、服装色彩方面的设计师山本耀司和高田贤三,服装材质方面的设计师三宅一生.这些日本男装设计方面的经验反过来又为本土的男装设计提供了重要的理论参考.

The aesthetics ＂Hanyong＂ of the Southern Song Dynasty is mainly reflected in ＂Hanju＂ in Neo- Confucianism of the same dynasty, meaning ＂implicit＂, ＂well-bred＂ and ＂lenient＂. It embodies beauty appreciation in Southern Song Poems, the spirit of the times in Zhu Xi＇s calligraphy, the Zen in Liang Kai＇s paintings and celadon technologies in Longquan. ＂Hanyong＂ aesthetics influences Japan deeply especially Japanese men＇s wear designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, TakadaKenzo and Issey Miyake. The experience of Japanese men＇s wear designs on the other hand can provide theoretic references for domestic men＇s wear de- signs.