酝酿之属:明清时期的“江南三白”与文人记忆

The Brewing Varieties:Jiangnan San-bai(江南三白) and Literati Memories during the Ming and Qing Dynasties

明清时期的饮食生活十分丰富,不同地域因其物产、风俗之不同,形成了鲜明的饮食品味差异。江南常有"三白酒"之名,是太湖平原地区的独特产品,为明清时代文人笔下描画的江南重要风物,亦为品味太湖美食时所常见。本文对"江南三白"及其若干代表性产地作了初步的解读,分析其间存在的文化地方感及其形成的区分意识,物质品味与文化意象,揭示其秉具的江南水乡文化的典型特质,以及当中鲜明的"地方"感,其中蕴含着与其他地域相排斥的元素。

San- bai alcohol was famous in Jiangnan and was the unique production of Taihu plain. This type of alcohol was important scenery of Jiangnan area under the literati description. Meanwhile,it usually appeared on the table when tasting the delicious foods of Taihu region. Conscious of this cultural awareness,we could find out the typical characteristics of Jiangnan culture. The sense of local and distinction was just one of those characteristics.