明代宫廷岁时节日服饰应景纹样与民间节俗关系研究

Research on the Relationship between Imperial Festival Costume Patterns and Folk Festival Customs of Ming Dynasty

我国岁时节日历史悠久,自汉代起就出现了完整的岁时节日体系,至今仍然通用。岁时节日的表现形式丰富多样,在衣食住行上均有体现。其中以服饰来象征节令转换或表达岁时节日内涵更是由来已久。到了明代,宫廷创造出与岁时节日体系相照应的应景纹样,随着时序的转换穿着相应的应景补服或蟒衣。这些纹样蕴含的寓意、更换的时间次序与民间节俗之间存在不可磨灭的关系。本文阐述了明代宫廷岁时节日服饰应景纹样中对应节日的起源、纹样的寓意和典型案例,再与明代民间南北各异的节俗活动相互比对,剖析两者之间的关系。研究认为:明代宫廷应景纹样顺应宫廷岁时节日体系,受民间节俗影响,与民间节俗包含的节日体系、节日活动、节日内涵息息相关。

In Chinese ancient culture, festival has long history that a completed festival system was formed and lasted from Han Dynasty to nowadays. Due to the diverse forms of festivals, folks＇ daily life was affected apparently. In the Ming Dynasty＇s vast territory, festival events were similar but not the same. The imperial festival costume of Ming Dynasty changed different occasional costume patterns depended on specific festival. In this paper, the original occasional costume patterns corresponding to specific festival event of Ming Dynasty will be represented. In addition, the meaning of festival costume patterns and typical case study will be described as well. Then, the relationship of discrepant festival events between Southern and Northern China based on mutual comparison will be showed as follow. Research suggests that the Ming Dynasty imperial festival costume patterns system was most similar to the capital＇s costume patterns in short distance, on the contrary, the festival costume pattern made self-contained far away from the capital city. However, even slightly difference existed in different area, festival events had common spiritual connotation of complying with climatic, lucky blessing and avoiding evil and illness.