腊八粥在宋代汴京的创制及后代的变异

The Creation of Laba Porridge in Bianjing During the Song Dynasty and the Variation Afterwards

宋以前民间腊八节日食品中无任何粥类。随着佛教的世俗化以及社会经济文化的发展,佛教的粥和民间的腊八在宋代完成了契合。具体到空间的发祥地,就是东京开封。历史上记载腊八粥的最早文献,公认的就是孟元老《东京梦华录》,出自寺院的是七宝五味粥,出自民间的是果子杂料粥。在后代腊八粥的流传中,一个突出现象是各地一致认定源自宋代及汴京。从清朝末期开始,逐渐被改造成当代各地不分季节普遍食用的八宝粥,完全摆脱了佛教的色彩。腊八粥使粥由果腹变成了享受,由单纯的物质现象升华到了复杂的精神现象,由粥食升华到粥文化。一碗粥的经济史,凝聚了一个朝代首都的某种精华,折射了饮食文明综合集萃、发扬扩散、简化变质的某种模式。

Before the Song Dynasty, there was no porridge in the food which were prepared for the Laba festival in folk. With the secularization of Buddhism and the development of social economy and culture, the porridge, once pertained to buddhism only, now met the Laba festival in Bianjing and finished their combination between each other during the Song Dynasty. Kaifeng, the capital of the Song Dynasty, was the birthplace of Laba Porridge. Reminiscences of the Eastern Capital, written by Meng Yuanlao, was recognized as the earliest literary records about Laba Porridge. This book recorded two different names of the Laba Porridge. One was known as The porridge with five tastes, which came from the temple, another was called porridge with nuts and dried fruits came from the folk. When people talked about the Laba Porridge in the later dynasties, a prominent phenome was that they all agreed that it originated in Kaifeng during the Song Dynasty. From late Qing Dynasty, Laba Porridge completely got rid of the influence of Buddhist culture and was gradually transformed to the Eight-Treasure Porridge, people ate this porridge generally regardless of regional and seasonal restrictions. As Laba Porridge was raised to enjoyment, it improved the pure physical phenomenon to a complex spiritual phenomenon and sublimated the simple porridge to culture as well. The economic history about a bowl of porridge contained a kind of essence about the capital of a dynasty. It reflected the synthesis, promotion and simplification of food culture.