鱼腥草色素的提取和丝绸染色

Extraction of natural colorants from Herba Houttuyniae and its application to silk fabric dyeing

分别采用水、乙醇、乙酸乙酯和甲醇四种溶剂提取鱼腥草天然染料。通过测定提取液吸光度、染色丝织物K／S值和颜色特征值，确定水／乙醇为最佳提取溶剂。乙醇体积分数40％、提取液pH值9、提取温度60℃、时间60min、物料比1：35时，提取效果最好。以硫酸铁、明矾、硫酸铜和硫酸锌为媒染剂，采用预媒、同媒和后媒三种媒染方法对丝绸进行染色。染后织物的摩擦牢度和皂洗牢度分别达到4级和4～5级，日晒牢度可达到3。4级，但以硫酸铁为媒染剂时，染色织物的湿摩擦牢度较差，仅为3～4级。

Water, ethanol, ethyl acetate and methanol are used as extraction agent for the extraction of Herba Houttuyniae nature dyes. The absorbance, K/S value and color characteristic value are tested. The results show that the mixed solvent （water and ethanol） is the best extraction agent. The optimal extraction process is ethanol 40%（volume ratio）, pH value 9, extracting at 60 ~C for 60 min, material ratio of 1 ： 35. The dyeing processes of silk fabric with ferric sulfate, aluminum potassium sulfate, copper sulfate or zinc sulfate as mordant, using pre-mordant, meta-mordant and post-mordant methods are carried out. The color fastness to rubbing, soaping and sunlight are Grade 4, 4-5 and 3-4 respectively. But the wet rubbing fastness of the dyed fabric is 3-4 when using ferrous sulfate as mordant.