贴体西裤缝口构造及拉伸性能研究

Research on Tensile Properties and Seam Structure of Tight Trouser

采用条样法测试缝口拉伸性能,研究接缝角度、面料、线迹密度、缝线四个因素对缝口拉伸性能的影响。通过研究贴体西裤结构设计中挺缝线的偏移量与下裆角的关系获取接缝角度取值及变化档差,实现缝口构造与服装缝口实际情况吻合。通过正交试验、极差分析得出影响因素的主次顺序为:面料>线迹密度>缝线>接缝角度。获得较高断裂强度的优方案为:缝线选用3股20s纯涤纶线,线迹密度选取14针/3cm,面料选取成分为C/J的种类,接缝角度选取11°&5°。通过单因素方差分析发现接缝角度对拉伸性能有一定影响,但是存在非线性的情况,是由于各因素之间存在交互影响造成的。

Strip method was used to test tensile properties of clothing seam. Influences of seam angle, fabric, stitch density and sewing thread on tensile properties were examined. Seam angle value and variation range were acquired by studying relations between crease line translation quantity and under crotch angle of tight trouser structure to realize the seam structure in accordance with the clothing seam actual situation. Through orthogonal experiments and range analysis, the primary and secondary order of influence factors were got as fabric 〉 stitch density 〉 sewing thread 〉 seam angle. Optimal scheme obtaining higher fracture strength is three folded 20s polyester sewing thread, 14stitches/3cm stitch density, C/J fabric, 11° ＆5° seam angle. Through One-Way ANOVA, the results indicated that seam angle have influence on tensile properties but nonlinear because of interactions between different factors.