贴体服装前后胸围及袖窿门宽的分配方法

Allocation Method of Front and Back Bust and Armhole Width in Fitted Clothing

为满足消费者希望通过服装凸显身体曲线的需求,解决非弹性面料在很小放松量的情况下,保证成品胸围尺寸和袖窿门宽度的问题。通过对新旧文化原型成品胸围尺寸、背宽、胸宽、袖窿门宽以及人体腋窝围、腋窝宽、腋窝深的分析,推算得出在贴体服装中前、后胸围的分配公式。对推算结果,利用三维试衣软件对人体与服装的距离进行分析验证,结果表明该制图公式不仅能补足贴体服装胸围的损耗,而且可以保证前后袖窿门的宽度近似相等,且袖窿门不小于最小宽度4 cm,可保证贴体服装袖底部位的穿着舒适。

In order to satisfy consumers^need to use clothing to highlight body curve, the current paper is aimed to explore the possibility of ensuring the bust girth and the armhole width of the finished product being no less than the minimum armhole width even under the situation that the ease allowance is very limited for inflexible fabrics. Through the deep analysis of the bust girth, back width, bust width, front of armhole of both the previous and current standard patterns, and the axillary girth,axillary width and axillary depth of human body, the allocation equation of the front and back bust girth of fitted clothing has been proposed. The darts are determined as the bust darts. The obtained results have been verified by analyzing the distance between human body and the clothes using 3D fitting software. According to the results,the obtained equation not only will complement the loss of bust girth of fitted clothes, but also can ensure that the approximately consis-tency between the width of front and back armhole, and that the minimum width of armhole will not be less than 4 cm, so as to ensure the wearing comfort of fitted clothes at the bottom of the sleeve.