斜裁服装的平面制版方法及应用研究

Study on the Method and Application of Planar Plate Making for Oblique Cutting Garment

在文化式女上衣原型的基础上,探讨斜裁服装的平面制版法,即利用省道转移的原理,将文化式女上衣原型各部分原有省量进行重新分配,转移到斜向分割线和斜向省道中,构建一个斜裁的上衣模板,在此基础上简便地绘制出斜裁上衣或者斜裁连衣裙的结构图。通过省道平面转移之后的收省处理,使斜裁服装穿着时贴体合身。

On the basis of the culture style prototype of blouse, the planar plate making method of oblique cutting garment is discussed. Using the principle of dart transfer, the original dart of the parts of the culture style prototype of blouse was redistributed and transferred to oblique segmentation line and oblique dart. Based on building a oblique cutting template, it＇s easy to draw out the structure diagram of oblique cutting coat or oblique cutting dress. Oblique cutting will be definitely fit well by suturing dart after dart transfer.