基于漳缎特征的起绒素织物设计与开发

Design and development of fleece plain fabric based on the characteristics of Zhangzhou velvet satin

从织物外观和起绒原理的角度,梳理和分析了提花织物漳缎的技术特征,并将其应用于起绒素织物设计中。研究表明:借鉴漳缎的技术特征,采用重经组织和起绒组织相结合,即一组地经与纬线交织形成地部分,一组绒经与起绒杆交织形成起绒部分,绒经与纬线形成3纬W型固结,绒经张力由特殊张力装置控制,利用多臂织机织造,可得到仿漳缎外观效果、部分起绒立体感强的起绒素织物。该方法对非遗传承和产品设计有一定借鉴作用。

The technical characteristics of Zhangzhou velvet satin is introduced and analyzed from the perspective of the fabric appearance and raising principle, and is applied to the design of fleece plain fabric. The results showed that taking the technical characteristics of Zhangzhou velvet satin for reference, combined with double warp weave and raised weave that one group of ground warp interweaved with the weft as the ground part and the other group of the pile ends interweaved with raised rod as the raised part, velvet with weft formed 3 weft W binding and the tension of the pile ends is controlled by special tension device, fleece plain fabric is obtained with Zhangzhou velvet satin appearance effect and strong stereoscopic effect by using of dobhy loom. The new method has certain reference value for the design and the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage.