饮食男女:清代忆语文学的饮食书写

The Natural Instincts of Man: Dietary Descriptions in the Qing Dynasty

清代忆语文学兴盛,文人笔下的女性才艺兼通,她们将制作饮食视为日常生活的重要组成部分。女子的灵动与秀巧使饮食形成精巧淡然之美,散逸着才女气息,显示出女性的审美观念,蕴含着女子的生活态度与精神寄托。女子以才性、品德在饮馔天地中构筑起和谐的男女情意,显示出两性才智与情感的相契相合,其背后也潜隐着女性的辛劳、隐忍与付出。忆语的饮食书写流露出明清文人的饮食品味及生活情趣,建构起夫唱妇随的合乎男性才子期许的女子形象,这是男性文人对女性的理想投射,显示出男性观照视角与书写权力。

In the Qing Dynasty, reminiscent proses on dietary flourished： female protagonists were dexterous in both dietary skills and literary works and made dietary an important part of everyday life. Their smartness and dexterity were expressed in the beautiful delicate simpleness of food, which manifested their talented breath and aesthetic con- cepts, and contained their attitude towards life and spiritual sustenance. The female built up harmony and affection by their talent and integrity in the food making and showed affinities and emotional intelligence between the sexes. Behind, women toil, tolerance and pay were hidden. Reminiscent prose revealed the taste of food and dietary life of the scholars in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and constructed a female image to the expectation of the male scholar, which is the ideal projection of the male scholar on women that shows a male perspective.