采用改性聚酯弹性纱开发弹性针织面料

Development of Modified Polyester Elastic Yarn Knitted Fabric

针对氨纶的性能缺点,结合改性聚酯弹性纱T3000的性能特点,采用两种线密度的T3000 FDY(全拉伸丝)半光弹性纱开发3款针织面料。详细介绍编织工艺,以及预定形、染色、成品定形等染整工艺,3种面料选择不同的染整工艺,并测试面料弹性、毛细效应和抗起毛起球性。结果表明:T3000在织造时,要充分考虑面料的回缩性,选取合适机台,适当调节纱长;面料染色前,要在145℃进行预定形,防止因面料进缸受热时间过长而回缩过多;开发的T3000面料具有良好的抗起毛起球性和吸水性。

In terms of the performance disadvantages of spandex and combining the characteristics of the modi- fied polyester elastic yarn T3000, three kinds of knitted fabrics were developed by using two kinds of fully- stretched and semi-dull elastic T3000 FDY with different fineness. This paper introduced the knitting technology and the dyeing and finishing technology such as the pre-setting, dyeing and size-setting, etc. Different dyeing and finishing technologies were carried out for three kinds of knitted fabrics, and the elasticity, capillary effect and the anti-pilling were tested. The results show that in the knitting process of the fabric, it needs to carefully consider the recovery shrinkage of fabric, choose the proper machine and adjust the proper yarn length. In addition, before apphying the dyeing process, the pre-setting ：needs to be carried out under the 145 ~, which can prevent shrink of the fabric caused by the long time heat-treatment. The developed T3000 fabric presents good anti-pilling and moisture-absorbing properties