古代女性肚兜中性别意识解读

Analysis on Gender Awareness of Traditional Women's Chest Covering

传统服饰文化中,民间女性肚兜受典章制度的约束较少,较多地承载了女性的思想,从中可以解读性别文化的含义。以传世肚兜为研究对象,分别从制作技术、纹饰、形制方面,融合时代背景、社会生活因素、民间匠人的审美情趣;"制器尚用"、"材有美工有巧"、"言必有意、意必吉祥"的造物思想;"阴阳五行"、"以人为本"的哲学思想,发掘肚兜文化的思想源泉,将性别文化与服饰相结合,探讨古代女性肚兜的文化内涵。

In Chinese traditional clothing culture, the chest covering worn by folk females were rarely influenced by laws or regulations of clothing. This kind of wear bares the female thoughts of that time, in which the profound meaning of gender culture could be interpreted. Taking the chest covering of the old times as our research object, from the perspective of the heritance of production techniques, the changing of patterns and decorations, and the variation and heritance of traditional forms, this paper integrates the contemporary techniques, social living factors,the aesthetic preference of literary men and folk craftsmen, the traditional appreciation of the beauty of material and the delicacy of work, the idea of ＂ words must be meaningful, and the meaning must be auspicious＂ , and the traditional philosophy of ＂ yingyang and five elements＂ and ＂ people oriented＂ , the origin of the culture of Chinese traditional chest covering has been studied. By integrating the gender culture with clothing design, the cultural significance of ancient female chest covering has been discussed.