张爱玲的时尚哲学与性别“革命”观

Eileen Chang's Fashion Philosophy and Concept of Gender Revolution

张爱玲在1940年代上海沦陷区写就一段文学"传奇"之余,也制造了一个被冠以"奇装眩人"的时尚异峰。这既是当年以《杂志》为代表的大众媒体对她进行明星式的商业包装所致,也是张爱玲本人利用消费和时尚手段进行惊艳实践所产生的明星效应。而张爱玲之所以能够轻松地穿越并改编媒体的包装,创造自己的时尚风格,是因为她卓尔清醒的女性主义批判立场,能够犀利地勘破男权思想借用时尚手段教化女人的内在矛盾。更主要的是来自她那蕴藏在散文《更衣记》里的独特超前的时尚哲学:时装是表现女性主体性的场域,时装也是生命力的表现,时装甚至具有革命的功能;尤其是从男装对男性的压抑思考到"性别革命"的可能路径,几乎可说是预言了半个世纪后(1980年代)兴起的男性性别角色解放和男子时装变革的方向,体现出超强的洞察力和前瞻性。应该说,从时尚哲学和性别革命观这两个全新的角度重新解读张爱玲的"传奇",有助于进一步拓展张爱玲在文学文化史上的丰富意涵。

During the 1940s in Shanghai, Eileen Chang created a literature legend and a fashion peak which had been dubbed the ＂Bizarre Dress＂. That was caused by the mass media which advertised her as a movie star; and also by Eileen Chang＇s stunning practice which produced celebrity effect. Eileen Chang was able to easily change the media code to create her own fashion style, because she had a deep and clear position of feminism criticism, then she could sharply see through the internal contradictions of patriarchy which moralized women by fashion, Mostly because she had the unique advanced fashion philosophy which embodied in ＂Chinese Life and Fashions＂： fashion is the female subjectivity field; fashion is the performance of vitality;fashion even has the function of revolution. Especially she thought about the ＂gender role revolution＂ from the oppression of men＇s wear, that almost can be said she had predicted the direction of the male gender role liberation and men＇s fashion in the 1980s. In a word, to interpret Eileen Chang＇ ＂legend＂ from the two brand-new perspectives of the fashion philosophy and concept of gender revolution, is helpul to further expand Eileen Chang＇s rich cultural meanings in the literary history.