经编三维结构贾卡鞋面材料的尺寸预测系统

Size prediction system of warp-knitted three-dimensional structure jacquard shoe-upper

针对经编三维结构贾卡鞋面材料对鞋面各功能部位尺寸要求高,具体尺寸不宜控制这个问题,设计了4种组织结构、4种上机密度,分析这2种因素对鞋面整体横向、纵向缩率的影响,并研究贾卡网孔组织对鞋面局部花型尺寸的影响。基于试验结果,探究了贾卡鞋样整体横向、纵向缩率、网孔区域尺寸变化与影响因素间的定性关系,由此建立了鞋面材料的尺寸预测系统。最后,利用该尺寸预测系统进行贾卡3层鞋面设计。从一款设计实例发现,织造、后整理等工序后,成品鞋面尺寸与设计稿相吻合。证明本文开发的经编三维结构贾卡鞋面材料尺寸预测系统具有一定的可靠性。

Warp-knitted three-dimensional structure jacquard shoe-upper has high demand on size of the functional zone. To control the size of the shoe-upper fabrics,four kinds of fabric structures and four kinds of on-loom densities were designed. The influence of the two factors on the whole shoe-upper＇s weft shrinkage and warp shrinkage were analyzed. The influence of jacquard mesh structure on the local pattern size was also studied. Based on the experimental results,the correspondence among jacquard shoe-upper lateral weft shrinkage,lateral warp shrinkage,size of the mesh area and influence factors was explored,and then a shoe-upper size prediction system was established. Finally,the prediction system is used to design jacquard shoe-upper. Taking one jacquard shoe-upper＇ s design as an example,after knitting and finishing process,the size of shoes is consistent with the pattern. It is proved that the size prediction system is relatively reliable.