淡妆浓抹总相宜的美人妆——论敦煌壁画中唐五代女子的妆容特点

A Beauty May Charm with Either Light or Heavy Makeup——The Features of Tang Dynasty Women's Makeup in Dunhuang Murals

妆容文化由来已久,敦煌壁画中唐五代女子妆容种类与中原地区在很多地方既一脉相承,又有独具一格的一面,显示了敦煌妇女当时独特的精神风貌。敦煌地区流行的红粉美妆,是以胭脂为主要化妆品的妆容,从现存资料看这种妆容同西域地区女子妆容更为接近,同时,敦煌地区妇女使用胭脂在时间上也比中原地区更早。具有神秘色彩的黄妆也曾在敦煌流行,加上莫高窟很多供养人本身就是少数民族,所以这里出现异族特有的妆容。敦煌壁画中出现的女子唇妆,根据唇形判断,受到周边民族妆容的影响也更加深刻。

Makeup culture has a long history. Although Tang Dynasty Women＇ s Makeup in Dunhuang Murals has the same origin with that in the central plains, it has its own features and shows the unique spirit of the women in Dunhuang. The pink beauty makeup, popular in Dunhuang, is the main cosmetic makeup and much closer to the women＇ s makeup in western regions based on existing information. At the same time, the women in Dunhuang use rouge much earlier than the women in Central Plains regions. The mysterious yellow makeup has also been popular in Dunhuang with a unique alien makeup as many people in Mogao Grottoes are ethnic minorities. The women lip makeup in Dunhuang murals, judged from the shape of lips, is affected greatly by the makeup of the surrounding ethnic people.