添纱衬垫多功能针织面料的开发

Development of Multifunctional Invisible Fleecy Knitted Fabric

结合丙纶和Coolplus~的性能特点,面纱采用8.33 tex/72 f的黑色丙纶,地纱采用8.33 tex/48 f的Coolplus~,毛圈纱采用16.67 tex/144 f的涤纶,在28针/25.4 mm日本福原VXC-3S单面大圆机上编织添纱衬垫组织,开发吸湿导湿、速干、保暖的多功能针织面料。详细阐述设备参数、织针排列、三角排列、穿纱方式等编织工艺,以及前处理、染色、后处理、定形等染整工艺,并对面料的吸湿导湿、速干、保暖性能进行测试。结果表明,面料具有内外两侧向中间导湿、速干、防风保暖等性能,可以根据面料内外性能的不同设计不同类型的服装。

Combining with the properties of polypropylene and Coolplus, the paper develops a new kind of moisture-absorbing and moisture-transferring, quick-drying and warmth-retention multifunctional knitted fabric with invisible fleecy on the gauge 28 Fukuhara VXC-3S single circular machine, by using 8.33 tex/72 f black polypropylene as facing yarn, 8.33 tex/48 f Coolplus as ground yarn and 16.67 tex/144 f polyester as terry yarn. It introduces in detail the knitting technology including equipment parameters, needle arrangement, cam arrangement,threading ways, and the technology of pretreatment, dyeing, finishing and size-setting. In addition, the moistureabsorbing and moisture-transferring, quick-drying and warmth-retention properties of the fabrics are tested. The results show that the fabric presents both sides to the middle moisture-transferring, quick-drying and warmth-retention properties, which can be designed into different clothing through the inside and outside different performance.