色织提花针织斜纹面料的设计

Design of Dyed Yarn Jacquard Knitted Twill Fabric

基于针织斜纹面料具有斜纹外观的独特风格,利用纬编提花组织开发针织斜纹面料。色彩提花组织形成斜纹效果的控制因素主要有3个方面,包括斜纹方向、斜纹角度、斜纹宽度,斜纹角度主要通过提花线圈组织点的位置和织物的密度进行调整,斜纹宽度主要通过改变形成斜纹的线圈组织点数进行调整。结合设计方法和要求,在26针/25.4 mm的小筒径单面提花圆机上,设计几款斜纹变化的色彩提花针织斜纹面料,利用针织生产灵活、方便变化等特点实现此类产品的开发。

Based on the twill appearance style of the knitted twill fabric, the paper develops knitted twill fabric with weft knitted jacquard structure. The control factors of dyed-yarn jacquard structure form twill effect have three aspects including twill direction, twill angle and twill width. The twill angle was adjusted by the position of jacquard loop inte rlacing and the density of fabric, and the twill width was adjusted by the inte rlacing number of twill. Combined with design methods and requirements, it designs a few twill change dyed-yarn knitted jacquard twill fabric on 26 gauge small tube single jacquard knitting machine, which can use flexible production and convenient change characteristics to develop such products.