掐丝珐琅工艺在首饰设计中的创新应用-曲面珐琅的实验与研究

Cloisonne Craft-Innovative Application in Jewelry Design： Experiment on Bending Enamel

传统的掐丝珐琅工艺大多数应用于与生活相关的器皿上,而且很多都是弧面和平面的造型.把传 统的掐丝珐琅工艺应用在首饰设计中,不再拘泥于传统的平面造型,试图将珐琅烧制在有起伏的曲面上.通 过实验与研究,将运用两种方式达到曲面珐琅的效果,一种是把金属丝焊接在平面胎体上,通过锤揲工艺使胎 体形成曲面,再进行珐琅的烧制.另一种是运用3D打印技术,把曲面与金属丝同时打印出来,然后再进行珐 琅的烧制.曲面珐琅最终烧制成功.

Traditional filigree enamel process used in most of the vessels is associated with life, and many are modeling with cambered and plane surface. The traditional filigree enamel process used in jewelry design does not adhere to the traditional shape of the plane any more, trying to fire enamel on undulating surfaces. Through experiments and researches, this pa-per conducted two ways to achieve the effect of enamel surfaces. One was the welding wire in the plane of the carcass. The carcass was processed by hammering technology to make a curved surface, then firing enamel. Another way was the use of 3D printing technology, the surface and the wire were printed out at the same time with the enamel firing in the next process. Surface enamel firing finally succeed.