仿针织双弹牛仔面料的生产实践

Production of Knitting-like Double Elastic Jean Fabric

探讨仿针织双弹牛仔面料的开发要点。介绍了开发的织物规格;纺纱中努力提高氨纶包芯纱的质量和包覆效果;整经工序保证单纱动态张力在0.25N^0.30N;染色后采用四道水洗,以去除纱线浮色;优选浆料配方,保证浆纱增强保伸;采用OptiMax型剑杆织机,保证开口清晰,打紧纬纱;后整理工序降低烧毛温度,增加车速,避免落布折痕。生产的织物各项性能指标均达到了标准要求。认为:生产的该款仿针织双弹牛仔面料手感柔软,性能优异,可用于运动类产品的开发。

Development key points of knitting-like double elastic jean fabric were discussed. The fabric specification was introduced. The quality and covering effect of spandex core spun yarn was improved in spinning. Yarn dynamic tension was ensured at 0.25 N^0.30 N. Four washes were adopted after dyeing in order to remove yarn floating color. Sizing instruction was optimized to achieve a better sizing strength and longation. OptiMax rapier loom was adopted to keep shedding clearity and beating tightness. Singeing temperature was reduced and speed was increased in finishing process, which can avoid falling cloth creases. Each performance index of fabric has reached the standard requirement. It is considered that the knitting-like double elastic jean fabric has extremely soft handle and excellent performance,can be used for developing sports production.