服装拉链对典型纺织面料磨损过程的研究及损伤等级评价

Study and Evaluation on the Damage Process of Typical Apparel Fabrics with Zipper Abrasion

为了建立服装拉链磨损机械安全性的测试评价方法,研究了五种典型服装面料在常用拉链摩擦作用下的损伤过程。研究发现:平纹棉织物、平纹蚕丝织物、平纹涤纶织物在拉链摩擦过程中存在典型的阶段性磨损特征,即表面磨损、单向纱线断裂、双向纱线断裂(出现破洞)、破洞变大直至破损严重,上述磨损特征可用于拉链对于织物磨损等级的制订;不同材质拉链对织物磨损程度的对比实验和拉链微观机械结构的观察分析表明,由于拉链材质、啮合方式及锐边锐角结构的差异,三种拉链对于织物磨损程度的排序为:金属拉链、尼龙拉链、注塑拉链。

The frictional abrasion processes of five typical apparel fabrics were studied in order to establish the test and evaluation methods for mechanical safety of apparel zipper abrasion. The results show plain cotton fabrics, plain silk fabrics and plain dacron fabrics have typical abrasion stages in zipper friction process, i. e. surface abrasion, mono-directional yarn breakage, hi-directional yarn breakage （breaking hole）, breaking hole enlarging and serious damage. The above abrasion features can be applied to formulate fabric abrasion grade. The contrast experiment of fabric attrition rate resulting from different zippers and analysis of micro mechanical structure of zippers shows that due to the differences of zipper materials, meshing mode and sharp edge structure, the ranking of fabric attrition rate of the three kinds of zippers is as follows： metal zipper, nylon zipper and derlin zipper.