插肩袖的袖窿深与其造型的关系

The Relationship between Armhole Depth of Raglan Sleeve and Its Shape

以袖中线斜度为45°时,插肩袖的袖窿深对其造型的影响为研究对象,通过制作袖窿深不同取值下的样衣,评价样衣穿着效果,得出袖窿深与插肩袖美观性和机能性的关系。试验表明,当袖窿底点位于标准纸样袖窿底点时,插肩袖具有最佳美观性;当袖窿底点位于标准纸样袖窿底点向下7cm处时,插肩袖具有最佳机能性。分析试验结果得出了兼具美观性和机能性的插肩袖袖窿深取值范围,给插肩袖的造型设计提供了参考依据。

When the slanting angle of sleeve center line was 45°, the effect of the armhole depth of raglan sleeves on its shape wasas the research object. Through making experimental samples with different armhole depth and evaluating samples through wearingexperiments, the relationships between armhole depth and aesthetics and functionality of raglan sleeves were obtained. Experimentsmanifested that when the lowest point of armhole was located in the lowest point of standard pattern armhole, the raglan sleeves pos-sessed best aesthetics; when the lowest point of armhole was located in 7 cm down to the lowest points of standard pattern armhole,the raglan sleeves possessed best functionality. The value range of armhole depth of raglan sleeve with aesthetics and functionality wasfound out to provide a good reference for the shape design of raglan sleeves.