旗袍三个发展时期的结构断代考据

Dating research on three development stages of Qipao

针对当代旗袍史学研究注重文献研究而缺乏实证考据的现状,采取文献与实物二重考证实物的研究方法、方式对旗袍结构断代进行考证,以实物作为结论来源的基础,探索旗袍三个发展时期的结构变化。将北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏旗袍实物和民间重要收藏标本进行系统化测量与结构图复原所得结论,同20世纪20年代至70年代旗袍结构相关文献进行比较研究。通过结构复原实验发现,旗袍在结构变革和改良的过程中材料与结构存在相互制衡的关系。通过实物与文献的复核整理,归纳出旗袍发展三个时期所对应结构的典型特征,这将成为旗袍结构断代的参考依据和对传统服饰史学研究的有效补充。

According to the present situation that contemporary historiography research of Qipao concentrates more on literature research than on empirical research, baed on the ＂samples＂, the structural change of Qipao in three periods by textual criticism of both literature and samples was explored. Conparative study was carried out between conclusion, which was on systematic measurement and structure diagram restoration of collections in Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology National Costume Museum and main folk collections, and literatures on Qipao structure from 1920s to 1970s. By means of structure restoration study, the mutual restriction between material and structure in the structural change and edvelopment of Qipao is found. Besides, three conclusions are drawn on it＇ s typical characteristic on three periods, which is an impoutant reference for research on Qipao structure and effective supplement to historical research of traditional costume.