薄型绒类面料的起绒工艺开发与优化

Development and Optimization of Raising Technology for Thin Pile Fabrics

针对轻薄型面料在拉绒时容易出现直条、洞疵以及胀破强度较差的难题,对起毛工艺、梳毛以及剪毛工艺进行优化,重点探讨了起毛强度、起毛顺序和起毛次数等因素对起毛效果的影响,并改进了张力控制装置,开发了剪毛刀头的扩幅装置。结果表明:在2%适利坚PEP起毛剂,经3次轻度拉毛、"反面→正面→反面→正面→反面→正面"的拉毛工序开发的薄型绒类面料毛短而密、布面洞疵较少。开发的剪毛刀头的扩幅装置降低了剪毛过程的破洞率,提高了布料的利用率。

In this paper, the raising, carding, shearing process were optimize to solve the problem that the thin polyester pile fabric easy to straight, hole defects and poor burs strength of the pile when raising. The effects of raising strength, order and number on the effect of raising effect were discussed, and improved the tension control device, developed a shear head of the expansion device.The results show that the thin pile fabric developed in 2% nicotine PEP raising agent, under 3 times mildly drawn, in the order of ＂negative →positive→negative→posi- tive→negative→positive＂, which has the short and dens of pile, less cloth holes. The development of the shear head of the expansion device reduced the shearing process of the hole rate, improve the utilization of fabric.