中国传统盘扣造型结构的演变

Evolution of shape and structure of traditional Chinese button knots

盘扣作为重要的中国传统服饰元素,因其具有功能性和装饰性而被广泛运用。盘扣由远古结绳系带发展而来,秦朝出现"盘扣"雏形,使用于唐朝,普及于宋朝,清朝取代系带,民国时期到达巅峰,被沿用至今。前人的研究中,对于盘扣的起源与发展多为明清之后,而对明之前的研究较少,造型结构变化的研究著作更少。文章通过对中国传统盘扣藏品实物、文献资料的研究,归纳整理出盘扣的造型结构,总结出盘扣经历了从材质、造型结构到意蕴表达的全面演变过程,是一个从功能性到装饰性不断发展的过程,为中国传统盘扣造型结构的传承与创新提供合理依据。

Traditional Chinese button knots, as an important element of traditional Chinese costumes, are widely used for their function and ornamental features. Traditional Chinese button knots were derived from the acts of tying knots and lacking up in ancient times. The prototype emerged in the Qin dynasty. Traditional Chinese button knots were put into use in the Tang dynasty, popularized in the Song dynasty, replaced lacing up in the Qing dynasty, and were in vogue in the period of the Republic of China, and are still in use today. According to previous researches, it was widely considered that traditional Chinese button knots emerged and developed since the Ming and Qing dynasties. There are few researches made on the situation of traditional Chinese button knots before the Ming dynasty, let alone research works on the evolution of shape and structure of traditional Chinese button knots. This paper is intended to summarize the shape and structure of traditional Chinese button knots through researching material objects and document literatures of traditional Chinese button knots, and review the whole evolution process of traditional Chinese button knots from the perspectives of material, shape, structure, and connotation （ which is a continuous development process from functionality to ornamentation） , providing a reasonable basis for the inheritance and innovation of shape and structure of traditional Chinese button knots.