毛型涤粘赛络纺时装面料的设计与生产

Design and production of wool-like fashion fabric with polyester/viscose siro-spinning

讨论了毛型涤粘赛络纺时装面料设计与生产过程中的关键因素与技术措施。在产品设计过程中,针对涤纶及粘胶两种纤维的性能特性,进行了合理的赛络纺纱线结构及织物规格设计,使产品风格达到预期的仿毛效果。在生产过程中,通过采用络筒前抽真空蒸纱定捻,整经时进行张力控制,织造时采用"大张力、中速度、大开口、迟开口、低后梁"的工艺以及后整理时加强湿整煮呢和湿干整及柔软整理等措施,保证了产品顺利投产。

The key factors and technical measures in the design and production process of wool polyester viscose fabric are discussed. In the process of product design, the reasonable siro-spinning yarn structure and fabric specification design are made according to the properties of two kinds of polyester fiber and viscose fiber to make the product style to achieve the desired imitation hair effect. To ensure the production, measures are carried out such as winding before vacuum steaming yarn twist setting, warping tension control, weaving the ＂process of tension, speed, large opening, late opening, low back rest＂ and after finishing the whole wet strengthening boiling and wet dry whole and soft finishing process.